The Problem With Black Hair Stylists

No matter where I have resided – which for the record, is five cities in five different geographical locations, or which Black hair stylist I have patronized – and there have been many – the problem is universal: They are poor managers of time and of clients.  Let me explain.  

When a client makes an appointment for a service, the hair stylist determines how much time the service in question should take on the basis of learned experience and industry standards.  However, it seems that Black hair stylists, for the most part, either haven’t acquired this knowledge, fail to use it, or, a combination of the two.

What do I mean when I say that Black hair stylists are poor managers of time and clients?

1.  They arrive to the salon behind schedule, thereby forcing clients to wait, thereby putting themselves and their clients behind schedule.

2.  They take walk-ins, which impact the clients who have made bona fide appointments for their respective services.

3.  Clients show up late – sometimes up to an hour or more late.  However, they take them anyway, which, again, impacts the clients who have made bona fide appointments for their respective services.

4.  They allow clients to add on services for which they did not mention when they initially made their appointments, which, yet again, impacts the clients who have made bona fide appointments  for their respective services.

White hair stylists, as a rule, do not:

1. Run behind schedule.  They truly understand that time is, in fact, money. If I have had to wait, it was no more than 15 minutes, and those occasions have been extremely rare.

2. Take clients who are behind schedule.  Such clients are told they need to re-schedule their appointments.

3.  Allow clients to add services in the 11th hour.  If you signed up for a cut and color, then, you need to make another appointment for that perm.

4.  Take walk-ins.  One wants a service? Then, one makes an appointment.

Thus the reason I prefer Black male barbers, as opposed to Black hair stylists, whether they be male or female. Black male barbers cut clients’ hair on a first-come, first-serve basis, and they won’t cut hair if they don’t have time to do so.

I have yet to encounter a Black hair stylist who is a true businessperson.  But, I know he or she is out there, somewhere.

Related article:  Hair War! Black Stylists Losing Customers to Dominicans

Hair

San grandaughter, Botswana

Image via Wikipedia

I didn’t want to have the conversation about Black women and natural hair.  Really. I didn’t. Especially in multi-racial company.  However, I had the sinking suspicion, in anticipation of the annual “Language Department’s Night Out”, that the topic would arise. Sure enough, it did.

BTW: Something that I don’t quite understand: White people seem to have an über-fascination with hair  - especially with the hair of people of color, and that of Black people in particular.  What’s even more peculiar is that the same Black person could have sported the same hair style all year, and they are still fascinated with it.  Conversely, I don’t share the same über-fascination with Caucasian hair, or any other hair, for that matter.

Anyway, my department chair began by commenting on the hair of the only male member of the department.  Now, this young man has been nearly-bald since he joined the department.  Still, the department chair felt the need to comment on his hair by saying, “It must be so easy, caring for your hair.” Well, given that the young man has the equivalent of peach fuzz on the top of his head, she arrived at the correct conclusion.  Then, all attention turned to me. I sport a very short afro, better known as a twa, or a teeny weeny afro.  The department chair made the same remark to me as she did to my male colleague.  My response, “Actually, it isn’t as easy as you think.”  I think my department chair was surprised to hear this.  I continued: “There is much to consider – moisture level, to name one.  Kinky-curly hair is harder to keep moisturized, given the curl pattern.  Hair that bends, waves, and coils doesn’t allow the oils from the scalp to travel as easily from the root to the tip.  Also, kinky-curly hair is more fragile that one may think. So, there’s much to consider.”

I added that many Black women have been disconnected from their natural hair, due to, quite plainly, racism.  The closer that a Black woman is to the White standard of beauty, i.e. straight hair, light skin, European physical features, the more acceptable and less threatening she is to White people. I myself, prior to transitioning from relaxed to natural hair, wore a relaxer for 23 years.  Prior to that, my Dear Mother straightened my hair with a straightening comb. So, although I knew how my natural hair looked and felt, I had never worn my hair in its natural state. What ultimately led me to make the transition in earnest was a conversation I had with the mom of bi-racial child. The mom, with whom I have become good friends over the years, and whose son I have taught and am currently teaching, said the following: “I want my daughter to embrace her natural hair texture.” That resonated with me, and provided the inspiration I needed, because, at 45 years of age( the age I was when the conversation took place), I had neither embraced my natural hair, nor had been encouraged to do so. I am not blaming my mother. After all, she did for me and my hair what her own mother had done for my mother and her (mother’s) hair.  By the way: Dear Mom kills it with the straightening comb. The pressed/straightened hair looks just like relaxed hair when she is finished with it. Just wanted to put that out there.

Honestly, I didn’t really want to get so deep into the aforementioned topic, i.e. natural hair, the socio-political aspects of natural hair, and what it means to be Black and female in America, despite the fact that my sole male colleague is also of color, and is engaged to a Black woman. So, he truly gets it.  Conversely, I am not sure to the extent that the other three members of the department, who are White and female, truly get it.  I don’t think they really do.

In any event, my male colleague and I had a nice, intellectual discussion about children and relaxers, which seemed to pique my department chair’s interest.  We shared with her the essence of our conversation, again, without getting too deep into the matter.

At that point, I had had enough of the departmental bonding, and said my good-byes.  There I was again, educating my White colleagues. That said, perhaps they benefitted in some way from the conversation. What’s more important to me is that Black women of all ages are embracing their natural hair texture, and are enjoying the many different ways they can rock it.  We’re a part of a revolution, and a significant one at that.

FYI…

I am no longer transitioning!  Check out my Ticker Factory ticker.  :)

After nine months of transitioning, I am now fully and completely natural, i.e. the hair which organically emerges from my scalp, sporting a closely-cropped, kinky-curly coiff of about two inches. The ceremonial Big Chop was performed on Saturday, 15 January, between the hours of 7:30 and 9 am, by a humorous, talented, and sensitive stylist/barber by the name of Derrick.  Barbers are truly special people. I feel wonderfully liberated from my relaxed hair, and I don’t miss it.

I have received glowing praise from family, church members, students and colleagues alike.  Dear Dad required some time to warm up to the new ‘do, but, I think he really likes it, even though he may not admit it.

Anyway, after 23 years of wearing a chemical relaxer, I am beginning a new journey in my life.

As soon as I can get someone to take my picture, perhaps I’ll post a photo. :)  In the meantime, here are photos of lovely Black women sporting their natural hair after the Big Chop.

Advice: How to Sort The Good From The Busted

I just visited one of my favorite hair blogs, where in September, the writer posted on advice.  I think it is a very informative and thought-provoking post.

All of this talk about hair – from products to care and maintenance – has truly made my head topple and bob.  The simple truth of the matter is that one must proceed with caution when reading and following advice from people who are not reputable and licensed professionals, and even then we still need to do the research in some cases.  There is a PLETHORA of advice being dispensed on a minute-to-minute basis by everyday people about transitioning from relaxed to natural hair, for example.  Nothing wrong with that; one can learn from the experiences of others.   But, there is no proof, beyond the anecdotal, to support that what they’re saying is true, and that it will apply to a broad range of  hair types.  Like skin and skin care, hair and hair care is unique to every person, and must be approached on a personalized and individualized basis.  All of this to say:  I’m maintaining a low profile on hair and beauty blogs, and taking the “advice” with the proverbial grain of NutraSweet.

Don’t…Just…Don’t

One thing I have learned, and the hard way, I might add, is that it is not always prudent to use products designed for natural hair, i.e. kinky-curly, on hair that is transitioning, like mine.  Relaxed tresses simply don’t respond well to such things as coconut oil, shea butter, and aloe vera – to name three. At least, my relaxed tresses haven’t.

Transitioning is a complex and complicated process.  First, managing two different hair textures on the same head is a formidable challenge.  Second, one is bombarded by the myriad of advice and opinions from the various hair blogs and forums to the point that one doesn’t know which end is up.  It seems that everyone knows everything, when at the end of the proverbial day, one only knows one thing: Her hair, and what works for her hair.  In some cases, many naturals and transitioners alike know little about their own hair, and yet, they are dispensing advice about what I must do with my hair. It’s simply maddening.

Having allowed myself to get sucked into the abyss of hair care advice, I’ve spent much money on products that were major FAILS for my hair.  The ugly truth is, with the exception of ramping up the moisture, especially for the new growth, the products I was using prior to transitioning will work just fine.  So, I could have saved myself much-needed dinero, and strife.  But, as they say, live and learn.

So, don’t…just…don’t spend the money.  One should see what works from one’s current arsenal of haircare products before breaking off for haircare products designed for naturals.  Not only are products for natural hair mad expensive, but, one simply may not need them during the transitioning phase.  IF I had followed my gut, I would have purchased a bottle of Sta-Sof-Fro, and kept on stepping.

Not Feeling The Oils

Well, so it would seem.

I have been experimenting with jojoba, coconut and olive oils, and gauging my hair’s reaction to each.  Many rave about oils and their benefits to hair and skin.  In fact, I wrote about the wonders of jojoba and coconut oils on this very blog. The oil with which I have experimented the most extensively is coconut oil.  I have used it to seal my hair, moisturize my ends, soften my new growth, as a pre-shampoo treatment, and, as an oil rinse.  There is even coconut oil in several of the products I have purchased over the course of the past two months. Following all of this experimentation, I have come to the conclusion that my hair isn’t really feeling coconut oil.  Contrary to the positive effect many have reported on their hair, it seems to make mine hard.   The same is true of extra virgin olive oil. I did a pre-shampoo treatment using olive oil some years ago, and it made my hair as hard as a brick.  The only area of my hair where I seem to be able to use coconut and extra virgin olive oils successfully is on the ends.  Otherwise, it seems to be a fail.

Having said the aforementioned, I have experienced success with jojoba oil.  That said, I think I will limit even the use of jojoba oil to sealing the ends of my hair, and as a scalp treatment.  I think that as a general rule, my hair simply isn’t feeling the oils.

The Wonders of Coconut Oil

My good friend, Ms. Afropolitan, mentioned the goodness of coconut oil in response to my post regarding jojoba oil.  So, I decided to link to a post on coconut oil, and its benefits for hair.  In fact, my hair and scalp are marinating in coconut oil as I compose this post.  I am using it as a pre-shampoo treatment, or, in the online hair world, a “pre-poo.”  So many have reaped the benefits of coconut oil for hair and scalp, and so, I decided that it was my turn.  I will let you know the results once I have completed the wash/condition/style process.

Here is another wonderful post about using coconut oil for hair care.